Three new books on my shelves. Or are they?

I’ve just received three titles I’ve been coveting for some time: Smart Fitting Solutions, Mending Matters and Breaking the Pattern. Three totally different books, but all of them quite interesting.

           

The first one to get to my hands was Breaking the Pattern, on their launch day. Since I work in a bookstore (The ABC in the Netherlands), it was no surprise. Quite excited about it after reading so many good reviews, I fell a bit flat on my bum when I didn’t fall in love with it right away.

Why not? I asked myself. It’s a very good book, quite pretty, well made and full of interesting ideas. They give very good pointers on how to change the patterns and already give all the needed information for a number of those hacks. So… what was bugging me?

After some thought the one thing that kept creeping into my mind was that the models and the sizes were not that inclusive. They have a reasonably good amount of sizes, but they stop just before my size. So if I’d want to make anything from their patterns, I would have to considerably alter it so that it would fit me.

But I always have to alter patterns because I’m already shorter than the standard used in the industry. So, why was it bothering me so much?

The slight irritation was because I felt left out in their representation. Both models in the book are beautiful, but they are also both quite thin. And even though I’m quite aware of differences and that not everybody can be represented, nor that the authors have a problem with curvier models, I still felt left out.

Which brings up another question: I still feel like there are very few books on how to deal with curvier models, and I would love to see one being published with this public in mind.

It feels almost indecent to say all these things about this book, because it is such a good book! But it’s just not for me at this time, unfortunately.

On a happier note for me Smart Fitting Solutions is exactly what I was looking for at this moment in life. A book dealing with different sizes and shapes, posture and many other things. Fitting solutions is not something you find everywhere and even the old books that deal with it are not as easy to find. So, yes, this one made me happy.

And then came Mending Matters. What else can I say about it that hasn’t been said yet? Apparent mending is making an appearance in our lives, specially for people interested in helping saving the planet. It’s hopefully here to stay and to teach people that you can still make beautiful things while also mending them for continuous use. That what we wear does not need to be disposable after a few times. It is a way of life, one that is starting to weave it’s charms on me.

At this point in my life these two last books resonate more to me than the first one. Maybe because I’m older and what I consider important changed with time. It is interesting to see that the older you get, the more you think about your impact on the environment. So maybe that’s the difference and the why.

In any circumstance, they are all very good books for what they want to teach and create. They all deserve to be studied and used extensively.

Enjoy, people! It is a very good time for us makers at this moment and I’m enjoying immensely what different people are bringing to life.

Advertisements

Green shirt – or is it?

I think it’s petroleum green, but I’m not really worried about it. The most important thing: it’s beautiful!

August 2017 Jennifer Lauren from Jennifer Lauren Handmade invited a bunch of people to test her Afternoon Blouse and Shift Dress in order to show the world how it fits different body shapes.

As per usual I love her designs! They look a million bucks but are actually quite straight forward to make – everything I love in a garment. I’m all for difficult constructions when necessary and totally against when it’s not.

But I digress.

I made a straight size 24, again as per usual. But… I had to widen the sleeves a little bit, so I actually sewn them with a tiny seam allowance instead of the given one.

I’ve chosen the blouse version because I don’t actually wear dresses that often – even if I’d like to, but it’s not really practical while standing in stairs, putting up books or squatting at your work – so pants it is for my daily life. And I wanted to make something I could wear more (see me showing off at work) than only making a test garment and never wear it again. So a blouse it was.

I used a green/petroleum green rayon viscose (I guess. That’s how it feels anyway) I’ve bought at a market fair in The Hague for very cheap. My thoughts then: if it doesn’t work I at least haven’t spend too much on it. And I loved the color and the feel of it.

I also had a beautiful multicolored button at home that I’d bought in Rio and I thought might work well. I already had the right thread for that fabric and interfacing, so I was set to go.

2018-03-25-17-18-11.jpg

I used my “industrial” weights (washers from the DIY store) to hold down the pattern and then used pins to fix it to the fabric. I’ve tried using a rotary cutter, but can’t get used to it for the life of me. So even if scissors and shears are not as precise as cutters, they do work better for me.

Cutting was not a problem, and I realized right after cutting that the armhole would probably not be wide enough for my biceps and made a note to self: use the seam allowance instead.

I prepared all the pieces to start my sewing and then bang! My husband had a stroke and I couldn’t think about anything else besides living a day after the other.

It really gutted me to have to drop the project, but I was in no condition to do something else. So I took my time, let things slide for a few months and didn’t worry about the blouse.

But around February/March it started bugging me again. I was not happy I hadn’t finished the project – which I had promised I would -, and I still wanted to see the end product. It was such a beautiful fabric! I needed to finish it.

Decision made I put my mind to it and went to work. Following the instructions to the letter, because even if the construction is not difficult, it’s a bit fiddly if you haven’t done it before. And because my mind was still a bit fuzzy, I went slowly. Good decision, since I would have probably made a mess if not doing it that way.

But I love the end result! I wear it with enthusiasm and get loads of compliments for the make and the button. So success achieved.

As mentioned the construction is a bit fiddly but simple: if you follow the instructions the first time around. I’m still not too happy with how the rounding at the front came out – I definitely need more practice in that area -, but I love how it looks, how I look in it and that it actually is a pretty blouse. Good job, Jen!

Here some details. The one thing I did extra was anchor the facing on the shoulder, because it does tend to turn around the neck. It still does, but less then before.

Instructions: pretty good.

PDF: good and easy to put together. But next time I will have it printed as A0 – I don’t really care much about cutting and taping pages and pages of paper. I’ve been using Patternsy with great success, so I actually recommend (out of the goodness of my heart, because they are not giving me any discounts for that!).

Pattern construction: good and easy, even if a bit fiddly.

Will I make it again? Definitely. But I want to try the triangle detail next time, just to be different.

In my book a big success, both for the designer and for the maker.

A Pippi Pinafore

There’s nothing more interesting than breaking my blog silence sharing my experience in making something new. So here we go again, this time with a beautiful pinafore.

I love Jennifer Lauren Handmade patterns and I always jump in the tester bandwagon as often as possible. Since this time I would be sewing during my sewing lessons vacation I just grabbed the opportunity and applied. And got super happy when I was chosen for reviewing it.

It took me a bit longer than I had planned, but here it is: my rendition of this amazing pattern.

As usual, the instructions are really good and easy to follow. I had a hickup at some point because I hadn’t read the instructions well, so I went back and discovered where my error had been and corrected it in time.

I’ve been using Patternsy lately to print my pdf files and even though I was tempted to do it, I decided to cut and paste to see if it’s still as good a match as the other 2 files I have and it is indeed! One of the best pdf files I’ve encountered so far.

I had a thick cotton with a bit of stretch in my stash for a while – actually NZ fabric given me by my best friend when I was in Wellington last time – with a curious squares patterns that I thought could work really well for this pattern. I also had some remnant lining fabric, so I actually was more than ready to go.

I used a straight size 24 with a C cup, and it’s definitely the right size for me. I made some changes between cutting the pattern and cutting the fabric so it would fit me better.

I was very careful while cutting the fabric because of all the squares on the fabric. It can’t be a perfect pattern match, but I’ve done what I could and it worked really well. The pockets are great and I’ve used jeans buttons because that’s what I had at home. No buckles, so I used buttons again for the straps, and with the instructions it’s easy peasy.

I have shortened the length in the bib in 3 cm (standard change for me), as well as the length of the skirt in about 6 cm (since I’m only 1,58m in a world where most patterns are made for 1,65m or 1,70m) so that it would stop right before my knees. And because I realized just in time that my waist is actually a bit wider than on the pattern, I’ve added 2 cm to the waist. Well, I actually forgot to divide by 4 and added 2 cm on ALL sides, whilst I should have used 0,5 cm… But that’s the beauty of making your own clothes: you make mistakes and you correct them.

Looking at the back pictures I think I should have done a sway back as well, but I wasn’t feeling that adventurous. It will have to wait for next time.

The straps were a bit hellish to turn – because that’s one of my difficulties in sewing and I still haven’t resolved that yet. But they turned out pretty well – because I followed the instructions. So it was worth doing them. I will try some other methods next times though.

All in all a very pleasant and easy sew, with very nice details such as the lined patch pockets.

Would I change anything on the pattern? Maybe add the option of back patch pockets. They are lovely, aren’t they? And I’m always for more pockets.

Will I make it again? I’m not so sure. It’s not usually my style, but it might become one. It is quite comfortable and beautiful, so who knows? I will probably make one for daughter, who was quite appreciative of the results and the fabric. I might still have just enough left.

Great pattern and great experience. If you are looking for a nice and not too complicated sew, this is a good pattern to make.

Hope you’ve enjoyed the reading and if not convinced yet, give it a try.

Cheers,

Lília

Life goes on…

A lot has happened in the last few weeks and I’ve made a conscious decision in not saying anything on this venue before today.

In September hubby had a stroke – “mild”, fortunately – and our lives were just scrumbled over. I was suddenly solely responsible for daughter, work, going to hospital and later revalidation center. It was a lot. So I simply closed off and went with the flow, living by the day.

Best decision ever. You actually cannot do differently. It’s such an intense moment you can only survive it day by day.

Fortunately he recovered – and is still recovering! – pretty quickly and within a few weeks was back home. He still has some balance challenges and get tired very quickly, but is improving at hyper speed, so no complaints here.

Then, at the end of October my father in law passed away. The best thing for him – he was quite tired, sick, had lost a lot of weight and just wanted to go to his wife. He’d been a widower for 14 years and for him it was time to go. It was a sad happening for the rest of us, as it usually is.

Hubby made a beautiful presentation with old and new pictures and had a wonderful say during the eulogy, his brother had a short and also powerful say and daughter read a heartfelt poetry about her “opa”. All that with beautiful music that spoke to us and of him.

Cerimonies like that are still a bit alien to me. Used to the way things happen in Brazil, a lot quicker because of the warmer weather, I actually identify better with the Dutch way of working out this moment. As a not very religious person finding a way of showing the sadnesses of loss, but also the glory of knowing someone, in a different way is actually quite freeing. It helps with the whole process of letting go and rethinkg your priorities.

And then we come to exactly that: priorities. Life has a way of showing us what’s important and how we can deal with it. Let’s enjoy it to the fullest.

The Cashmerette’s Upton Dress

This is actually one of my favourite patterns ever. It was also the first one I’ve bought from Cashmerette – because I fell in love with the pattern, but mostly because I fell in love with the navy blue fabric they were selling some kits with. I just couldn’t make my mind quickly enough and when I finally decided to order the kit, the navy blue was already gone. Then from there to deciding for the other kit it took me a little bit more time, but not as much. Fortunately that one kit was not sold out and I’ve managed to grab the whole set. A bit more expensive than what I was hoping for- we have to pay extra taxes in the Netherlands from goods coming from the US -, but I loved it so much it was worth the price.

I bought the kit – including fabric and pattern – July last year and made the dress for father’s 90th birthday in September. I first made a muslin and after deciding I had to simply shorten the shoulders 3 cm straight both on front and back, this wonderful version was born and it simply fit perfectly!

For this version I decided not making it with pockets, but since then I’ve kind of regretted the decision. I miss pockets! So now whenever I make something new for me, it’s always with pockets.

I really enjoyed making this Cashmerette pattern and it made me want to try more of their patterns. Which I did, and it’s wonderful, really!

Besides the fit being perfect for me, the instructions are well-written and quite clear, and when in doubt you can always follow their sew along, which are pretty good and detailed.

Since I’ve bought this pattern I’ve actually bought another kit – that I haven’t used yet, shame on me! – and ended up buying all of their patterns in pdf. Printed them at home and after putting them together, copied the size I wanted and am now actually preparing a couple of different Springfield tops for the coming weeks. I’ve made a couple of versions of the Concord tee already and will show them here one of these days.

So if you are curvy like me and are interested in some well-drafted patterns for curves, I do advise you to try one of Cahsmerette’s patterns. It’s worth it!

 

Writing again? And sewing? I try my best!

It has taken me sometime to start writing again, and even though I really want to be blogging at least once a week, life gets in the way and I don’t seem to be mustering the energy to do that as often as I’d like. But I do whenever I manage the time.

Today I’m printing the pdf version of The Afternoon Blouse & Shift Dress from Jennifer Lauren Handmade (@jenniferlaurenhandmade), which I will be testing. Yeay! I’m quite happy with this opportunity, and what it entangles. Not only that I’ve managed to produce a nice product and a fair review within the time limit she’s given us for the previous pattern, but that it forces me to keep making things and putting energy in something I really enjoy.

I discovered sewing a few years ago as a second thought, something I would like to do because I’ve seen people making things and they looked pretty. And then I simply fell in love with the whole process and can’t stop trying new techniques, new things, new fabrics, new gadgets… So now I use any opportunity I have to make something. Quite often for others – child, friend, husband… – and sometimes for myself. I need to make more for me these days, because I can’t seem to find anything interesting at stores nowadays – on my size or with my taste! The size needs to drop a bit – for health reasons, I’ve accepted my shape a long time ago – but the taste…

I guess I’m going in the direction of wearing only Me Made stuff. Cool!

Besides all that, I found out sewing is my Happy Place. I get totally zen when sewing and preparing fabric and notions to sew something. It centers me, calms me. It helps me to put things in perspective. And making things for others and myself make me even happier.

At the end of September I will be posting a review on the Afternoon Blouse. I haven’t decided if I’m going to make a Shift Dress as well or not, but I will definitely make a blouse. And will wear it around. Depending on the end result I might even make the dress too. We’ll see.

The Laneway Dress

Last month Jennifer Lauren from Jennifer Lauren Handmade invited some people to become testers for her patterns, since she’s trying to make them more known around and having them being tested for different sizes. I was fortunately one of those people chosen for the first pattern, the Laneway Dress, and was more than happy in trying this wonderful pattern I was dreaming about since it had been released. So here my review for the world to see, read and judge.

I’ve used an USA fabric I’ve bought in Brazil last February, 100% cotton, probably what most people refer to as cotton lawn. Really pretty.

I’ve cut the body as it was given on the pattern, size 24, cup D. It turned out too long for my short torso, since I’m quite short (1,58 cm) and most patterns are made for generally taller folk.

I usually don’t follow the instructions to the letter – yeah, I’m that kind of person! – but I’ve decided to do that this turn around since it was for a real pattern test and not just something I’d whip on a whim. I’ve shortened it 3,5 cm and it then turned fine!

The junction points came out almost perfect, but what really was the greatest kick was having pockets! Good size pockets, no less! And the neckline is just beautiful!

The one thing I’ve changed was the sleeve: how to set it in and the look of it. I don’t like gathered sleeves much, so I’ve made my own version of it: a small pleat. Since it wasn’t exactly planned that way, it didn’t end up perfect. But I love it anyway!

2017-08-23 10.05.03

So, to answer some of Jennifer Lauren’s questions about fit, instructions and the pattern in general, and what I would change:

  1. Easy to use. Finding the right size was actually easy.
  2. Instructions: if you follow them, you’re in the right way. Taking into consideration English is not my first language and that I’ve started learning to sew in Dutch, I think it was pretty well explained: clearly stated and to the point.
  3. Fit: I think it’s actually quite good. I might should have done a C cup instead of a D cup because I realise that in the end there’s more fabric loose around the boobs than it was supposed to be, but nothing that actually bothers me.
  4. Sleeves: I’ve changed it, just because I don’t like gathered sleeves. I wouldn’t change anything else.
  5. Will I make another one? Yes, definitely! With some crêpe de chine or silk. Or maybe wool. I still have some beautiful fabrics I’ve bought in New Zealand. 😉